How to destroy your bike

I've been riding quite a bit lately. I'm building up for a the LA Wheelmen Grand Tour Double Metric Century Challenge (whew, that's a mouthful!) in late June. So that means lots of long epic rides and mostly in the mountains. I have gone farther than I have ever imagined and still the longest ride I have done has been only about 75 miles, which is still a long ways off from reaching at least a century ride before the double metric century (about 126 miles.)

So I have a long ways to go, but I have a sprint triathlon coming up next week so I thought I would get a little more experience in the flats on my triathlon bike. Yesterday I took my Raleigh out for a spin along the San Gabriel River Trail. I started in Duarte and the idea was to go hard and fast to the ocean and back. Instead I destroyed my bike. Ok, maybe that is an overstatement, but I completely ripped the rear derailer off. The rear hub may be damaged, the cassette may be toast and the front big chainring may be bent as well.

So what happened? To understand how this could happen I have to explain about rear derailer cage capacity. The cage is the arm that hangs down from the derailer and holds the two pullys that the chain runs through. The job of the cage is to direct the chain onto the proper cog, but also it functions to take up the slack in the chain. The longer the cage the more slack it can take up and the more "capacity" it has. For the drivetrain to run properly the chain needs to be long enough to wrap around the two largest gears (the big chainring in front and the largest cog in back) and also have a cage that can take up the slack while the chain is in the two smallest gears (small chainring, small cog). The larger the difference between the rings in either the font or the back will increase the difference in chain lengths required in these two positions and thus will require a greater cage capacity. Campy rear derailers come in either short, medium or long cage. The longer the cage, the greater capacity, but also the greater weight and slightly slower shifting response. Generally people who are concerned with performance go with the lowest cage length required.

On my road bike I have a compact crank which requires an increased capacity and also I tend to run a 13-29 cassette for climbing, which also requires a greater capacity, so on my road bike I have a medium cage rear derailer. A medium cage will handle just about anything short of a triple crank with no problems. I wanted to get a medium cage for my tri bike as well, but when I ordered my parts I forgot to specify that I wanted a medium cage and was instead sent the more common short cage. The short cage will work for a standard crank and any cassette with the lagest cog of up to 27 teeth. I didn't want to do through the hassle of sending the thing back and I have a standard crank on the bike and don't plan on using it for climbing so I figured a shart cage would be fine.

Generally it is fine, unless I use my climbing 13-29 cassette. When I use that cassette the chain will jam when I am in the big chain ring in front and the large cog in back (every other combination shifts fine), but since I wasn't planning on using the tri bike for climbing why would I need to use that cassette. And if I did use that cassette then I just need to stay out of the big/big combo. I'm not supposed to shift into that combo anyways because it is cross chaining and bad for wear and tear on your bike anyways. So every time I ride the bike I either put on a 12-25 cassette or just be careful to not shift into the big/big combo.

So now it should be obvious what happened. I was too lazy to swap cassettes when I moved my powertap wheel from my road bike to my tri bike. Then about an hour into my ride I was powering along on the flats in my big chain ring when I can across a short steap hill. I didn't shift soon enough because I thought my momentum would carry me up most of the hill, but I misjudged how steep it was. Then I had to quickly downshift and while I was specifically trying to avoid shifting it into the largest cog I accidently shifted it one gear too many. There was his horrible metal crushing sound and the bike stopped instantly. I was fortunately able to clip out in time, but the bike was really messed up. The rear derailer hanger had been torn in two and my beautiful carbon chorus derailer was bent and mangled and jammed on top of the cassette. I was able to remove the rear wheel and pull the mangled bits out, but that was the end of that ride.

It looked like I was going to have to walk over 15 miles bake to my car barefoot, but fortunately my wonderful wife was able to pick up my sorry ass on her way to work. Looks like I'm riding my road bike in the triathlon next weekend.

My New Toy

I bought a new road bike last year, but I almost regretted not getting a triathlon bike. I always planned on getting one, but maybe two or three years down the line. Every time I saw a triathlon bike I would just love the look of the aero bars, the aggressive geometry and the aero tubing. Oh the aero tubing! How could I ever think of waiting that long. So I knew I had to keep the cost low so I knew I was looking at a used aluminium bike. I also knew that I wanted Campy components because my road bike is Campy and that makes it easy to swap wheels or cassettes. This is particularly important if you have a set of race wheels or a wheel integrated power meter like a Powertap, which I do. There aren’t too many Campy equipped Tri bikes out there. You see some on Ebay, but rarely in the size I would need. I have a long torso and short legs so standover height on bikes is a problem for me. I really like Cervelo frames but they have really high standovers. I would either need a bike with a long top tube for its size or something with a compact geometry.

I found this used Raleigh frame on Ebay for cheap. It has a really long top tube and just the right standover, so it works out great. It is a Kinesis frame made out of 7000 series heat treated aluminium. Very similar frames are sold under the brands of Kinesis UK, Jamis, K2, Schwinn, etc., but I have never seen one exactly like this one. Usually they have carbon seat stays, which this one does not or they have external cable routing. This one also has vertical dropouts while the Jamis Trilogy has horizontal dropouts. Any ways it’s a relatively low end frame, but what makes it cool is that it is a Raleigh. What’s cool about that you might ask? It has been a long time in the US since Raleigh was a cool brand. But I like the uniqueness of the bike, because Raleigh doesn’t make triathlon bikes. That’s right. They don’t make them. Well, Raleigh’s South African franchise makes one very similar to this with external cable routing called the 6000, but Raleigh USA does not make a triathlon bike. So how did this one come about? Raleigh sponsors a few cycling teams and made this one up custom for one of their teams. (Or more accurately ordered one from Kinesis in Taiwan and put their stickers on it.) I’m guess that it was made for the Recycled Cycling Team.

Another cool thing is that I think a Raleigh bike is the perfect companion to my Bianchi. These two companies are the two oldest bike manufacturers in the world and both have charted similar paths. Both made their mark in of cycling racing history, both have diluted their brand appeal by selling cheap mass market bikes and both have made a recent resurgence on the cycling scene as of late. They both also traditionally wear Campy. So there you go, a perfect match.

I built up the bike with new parts sourced from Ebay, ProBikeKit.com, Excel Sports and TriSports.com. let me just say that ProBikeKit is awesome. I went with Chorus components because I saved so much money on the frame I had extra money to put into the components. My favourite part of this bike is the crank. The new UltraTorque crank from Campy is so elegant in design that I just had to have it, even though plenty of traditional square taper cranks were available.

The hardest parts to find where the bar end shifters. It was not so much that you couldn’t find them, but more that you couldn’t find them for a reasonable price. They cost about three times the price of Dura Ace bar end shifters and for no reason other than they are less common.

For brakes I went with the Tektro R740. Lighter than Dura Ace or Campy Record. Another factor in the choice was that I wanted a quick release on the brake callipers because bar end brake levers never have quick releases. Campy brakes don’t have quick releases, and putting Shimano on a Campy bike is just weird – thus the Tektros. I also considered FSA brakes, but I found a great price on the R740s and couldn’t pass them up.

For the cockpit I wanted Vision. I never really considered anything else. It just looks so cool. I have always wanted Vision aerobars and now I’ve got them. The Vision carbon bars are not some much lighter than the aluminium ones so I just went aluminium with carbon armrests.

The wheelset is Zefiro K52 deep section carbon wheels. Nothing special here. A good solid wheelset that is a little heavy, but has an aluminium clincher rim so that I don’t have to swap out brake pads when I change wheels. They were also very cheap. I couldn’t even consider getting race wheels unless they were very cheap.

I tried a Profile Design Tri Strike saddle I had lying around, but there is no way I could get comfortable on that thing in aero position. In aero position you are crouched so far forward that you are basically sitting on your balls. I don’t know how anyone can do it with a regular saddle. I invested in an ISM saddle. It is basically the same shape as the Profile Design Tri Strike but with the nose cut off. That way my guys can hang free and I won’t suffer. It also has long rails so you can move the saddle forward or back as needed.

I love my new ride!